The success of high-quality grape seedlings largely depends on effective management during the summer and autumn seasons. For over two decades, our institute has specialized in cultivating grape seedlings and has now established a large-scale nursery with a million-vine base. Through years of experience, we have developed practical techniques for managing grape seedlings during these critical periods. Below is a detailed overview of our practices.
**1. Shoot Management**
- During mid-July, cuttings typically grow to 40–50 cm. At this stage, multiple shoots may appear, which can lead to weak growth. In dense nurseries, it's essential to remove excess shoots to promote strong, healthy growth. Only one vigorous shoot should be left, while others are pruned.
- When shoots reach about 50 cm, the main tip (heart) is removed, leaving 10–15 cm. Any side shoots that emerge after this should be removed, except for the top one. Once the tip reaches 5–6 leaves, leave 2–3 leaves at the top and remove any new growth from the side shoots.
- For certain high-end varieties, shoots may need to be trained to grow vertically. This is done by tying them to bamboo poles or nylon ropes. If the nursery is sparse, each plant can be tied individually. Bamboo poles are often secured with crossbars to prevent damage from wind or accidental knocks.
**2. Soil and Fertilizer Management**
- Fertilization is done in two ways: top-dressing and foliar spraying. Urea is commonly used, with 15–20 kg applied when the seedlings have 7–8 leaves. A second application follows after 15 days, and a third is usually given. In summer, a 0.5% urea solution is sprayed, while in autumn, a 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution is used, both applied twice.
- Watering is adjusted based on growth stages. Before sprouting, water is applied every 7 days. Once shoots reach 10–20 cm, watering is reduced to every 15 days. After reaching 30–40 cm, watering is done every 20 days. If the weather is wet, irrigation is skipped. When seedlings reach 50 cm, watering should be controlled. Winter watering is essential if the seedlings remain in the nursery until winter.
- Weeding is minimized due to the use of plastic mulch. However, manual removal of weeds around the plants is necessary after each watering to maintain cleanliness and prevent competition for nutrients.
**3. Pest and Disease Control**
Pest and disease control is crucial for producing healthy, virus-free seedlings. Key diseases include downy mildew and black spot, while pests such as cotton bollworms, beet armyworms, and grape hawk moths must also be managed.
Spraying begins when seedlings have 7–8 leaves. A 500-fold solution of carbendazim (50%) is applied first, followed by a 600–800-fold solution of mancozeb after 15 days. After transplanting, a Bordeaux mixture (1:0.7:200) is used. If downy mildew appears, a 600-fold solution of Kepo or a 300–500-fold solution of mancozeb can be applied.
In autumn, the focus shifts to a 1:1:180 or 1:1.5:180 Bordeaux mixture. During pest season, insecticides like dichlorvos (1000–1500 times) for grape hawk moths or Longwei (1000–1500 times) for bollworms and armyworms can be added. Spraying is best done in the late afternoon to avoid high temperatures.
**4. Variety Purity Management**
Each grape variety has unique characteristics. When new shoots reach 7–8 leaves, they can be easily identified. Any hybrids must be removed immediately. In large nurseries with multiple varieties, markers like bamboo sticks or plastic ropes are used to distinguish them. A detailed variety map is maintained to track locations and quantities. This ensures no mix-up occurs, which could lead to loss in future production.
**5. Timely Removal from Nursery**
After the fall season, seedlings should not be removed immediately. Allowing them to stay in the nursery helps the roots store nutrients. It is best to move them out before or after the "Minor Snow" period, ensuring they are ready for planting.
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